Skip to content

Instruction - NSI Universal nail liquid

The original non-yellowing, cross-linking sculpting monomer that is resistant to pigments, stains and dyes. Universal Nail Liquid is the HEMA-Free nail liquid we recommend as an alternative monomer for clients who may be experiencing a sensitivity to nail liquid.

The original cross-linking monomer creates tough, yet thin nail enhancements. The non-yellowing formula uses a UV shield to block out UV exposure to retain color clarity and keep enhancements looking new.

MIX RATIO
Universal nail liquid should be worked in a medium wet mix ratio.

  1. Submerge brush completely into your Dappen Dish containing desired monomer, and flatten hairs to saturate brush. This will prevent dry powder and will force out any oxygen trapped around the brush hairs. Complete saturation is recommended at the beginning of each service.
  2. Wipe the brush along the sides of the moistened dish to release excess liquid. This pressure will also create a flat side to the brush. The more liquid you remove, the smaller bead pick up you’ll have, while still maintaining a medium wet mix. Leave larger amounts of liquids for larger beads that may be required.
  3. Dip the flags (the very tip of the brush) into the powder. Gently drag and press the brush into the powder.
  4. When the bead is on the brush, wait until all the powder is absorbed and looks like a smooth pearl. The bead should be medium wet, looking slightly frosted and dimpled with no loose powder. When the bead is placed on the nail, it should level about 25 percent. It should move where you want it without running or being unable to press. Use your eyes to see that the color looks correct, and your touch to determine the feel of the bead.
NATURAL NAIL PREP
  1. Spray your hands and clients’ hands with Purify. Push back the cuticle and gently remove shine with a Endurance 180/240 Grit Buffer. Using a Nail Wipe saturated with Nailpure Plus. Press and rub into natural nail.
  2. If extensions are desired, adhere tip or fit a nail form at this time.
  3. Apply Essential Bond (Acid-Free) Primer liberally to the natural nails. Remove the brush from the bottle and wipe along the edge of the bottle, then brush onto the natural nail. Re-dip the brush and repeat the process until the nails are coated. Allow to dry for one minute. They will not appear chalky white.
ZONE SCULPTING
Zone 1 - Smile line and extension using a white powder of your choice:
  1. Using the mix ratio previously outlined, place a medium sized bead near the smile line in Zone 1. Using the tip of the brush, gently press the smile line into place guiding and slightly pushing the product into the corner of the smile line. Keep the brush handle angled downward which will help to keep the smile line edge thicker and will also taper the extension edge.
  2. Clean any excess product from your brush and roll into a point. To crispen and define the smile line, back brush while the product is still moveable.
Zone 2 - Stress area using a pink powder of your choice:
  1. Place another bead of pink powder just slightly beyond the smile line, without touching the smile line. Press gently from side to side to coat the nail evenly.
  2. Very lightly, feather into the smile line. Be careful not to drag product over the white smile line. The pink could cover or camouflage the white.
Zone 3 - Cuticle area using a pink powder of your choice
  1. Place another bead in Zone 3 near the product in Zone 2. Angle your brush and thin the front of the bead so it leaves a tiny margin around the cuticle and side walls. This will assure that you are not overexposing your clients’ nail.
  2. If additional product is needed to create the apex, use a small bead of clear powder in Zone 2. Allow the product to set, until you hear a click.
  3. Follow the instructions for Finishing the Nail.

REVERSE FRENCH: Zones 2&3
For the best results, use with opaque pink powder options:

  1. Using the mix ratio previously outlined, apply your chosen color acrylic to the nail plate creating a ledge which will form the smile line. If sculpting, you can create a base nail in clear before applying pink and white acrylic. This will allow you to file the pink without the form moving. Press gently from side to side to coat the nail evenly.
  2. Continue into Zone 3, angle your brush and thin the front of the bead so it leaves a tiny margin around the cuticle and side walls. This will assure that you are not overexposing your clients’ nail. Allow product to set, until you hear a click.

Zone 1 - SMILE LINE & EXTENSION Using a white powder of your choice:

  1. If any dust is left from refining the pink, remove using your Plush Brush. Apply a medium sized bead to the free edge. Using the tip of the brush, gently press the smile line into place guiding and slightly pushing the products into the corner of the smile line. Keep the brush handle angled downward which will help to keep the smile line edge thicker and will also taper the extension edge.
  2. If additional product is needed to fill the ledge between the pink and white powder, use a small bead of clear powder in Zone 2. To prevent bulk, taper the product evenly from the cuticle to the free edge, stroke through like a polish.
  3. Follow the instructions for Finishing the Nail.

FINISHING THE NAIL

  1. Using an Endurance 180/180 Grit File, define the shape. Start with the side walls. Make sure they are parallel and not fanning out. File free edge into the desired shape. Refine surface and check for proper design and apex placement. File the nail so it is smooth, balanced and attractive following the curvature of the nail.
  2. Remove excess dust with your Plush Brush. Use a Nail Wipe lightly saturated with Cleanse to remove any dust that may be hiding in the side walls.
  3. Either buff to a high shine or apply Glaze ‘n Go LED following the directions on the packaging. Condition the cuticle and surrounding skin with Nurture Oil.

REMOVAL

  1. Remove the shiny shield of the top coat with an Endurance 180/180 Grit File.
  2. Place the tips of the fingers into a bowl of Soothing Soak Off Remover. This will keep your clients’ hands nourished and pampered during removal.
  3. Continue to file and soak until product is completely removed. The product will go frilly around the edges of the enhancement. When ready it will be soft. Use an orange stick or equivalent tool to peel off the remaining product.
  4. At this time your nails are ready for reapplication of product or wash hands with warm water and soap and condition with Nurture Oil.