Spa Nail Liquid has a higher molecular weight, which makes it heavier and thicker. Using Spa Nail Liquid requires a drier mix ratio than traditional monomers, medium dry. It has unique working properties and is non-evaporating and non-volatile.
While working you may experience roll off, the tacky residue that occurs when working with Spa Nail Liquid. This can be removed with a light buffing of the finished nail or by saturating a Nail Wipe with Acetone and pressing the wipe to the nail and hold for approximately 30 seconds.
Spa Nail Liquid requires a medium dry mix ratio: approx 1 to 1
Submerge brush completely into your Dappen Dish containing the monomer and flatten hairs to saturate brush. This will force out any oxygen trapped around the brush hairs. Complete saturation is recommended at the beginning of each service. (Spa Nail Liquid will feel slightly thicker than traditional monomers.)
Wipe the brush along the sides of the moistened dish several times to release excess liquid. The more liquid you remove, the smaller bead pick up you’ll have. Leave larger amounts of liquids for larger beads that may be required.
Dip the flags (the very tip of the brush) into the powder, hold and press until desired bead size has been achieved. Remove the brush from the powder and check the bead. Gently press the brush back into the powder, for additional powder pick up.
The bead should be medium dry and there might be dry powder still visible. This is fine. Once you place the bead on the nail, it will become creamy. When the bead is placed on the nail, it should level about 25 percent. It should move where you want it without running or being unable to press.
If the bead feels sticky, the mix ratio is too wet.
If working too wet, yellowing, lifting and “roll off” of the enhancement can occur.
- Spray your hands and clients’ hands with Purify. Push back the cuticle and gently remove shine with a Endurance 180/240 Grit Buffer. Using a Nail Wipe saturated with Nailpure Plus. Press and rub into natural nail.
- If extensions are desired, adhere tip or fit a nail form at this time.
- Apply Essential Bond (Acid-Free) Primer liberally to the natural nails. Remove the brush from the bottle and wipe along the edge of the bottle, then brush onto the natural nail. Re-dip the brush and repeat the process until the nails are coated. Allow to dry for one minute. They will not appear chalky white.
Zone 1 - Smile line and extension using a white powder of your choice:
- Using the mix ratio previously outlined, place a medium sized bead near the smile line in Zone 1. Using the tip of the brush, gently press the smile line into place guiding and slightly pushing the product into the corner of the smile line. Keep the brush handle angled downward which will help to keep the smile line edge thicker and will also taper the extension edge.
- Clean any excess product from your brush and roll into a point. To crispen and define the smile line, back brush while the product is still moveable.
- Place a bead of pink powder just slightly beyond the smile line, without overlapping or touching the smile line.
- Press gently from side to side to coat the nail evenly. Very lightly, feather into the smile line. Be careful not to drag product over the white smile line. The intensity or opacity of the pink could cover or camouflage the white.
- Continue into Zone 3, angle your brush and thin the front of the bead so it is and leaves a tiny margin around the cuticle and side walls. This will assure that you are not overexposing your clients’ nail. If additional product is needed to create the apex, use a small bead of clear powder in Zone 2.
- After product application is complete, allow the nails to surface set for approximately one minute, until you hear a dull click. The surface should feel slightly tacky. Saturate a Nail Wipe with Acetone and press the wipe to the nail and hold for approximately 30 seconds. This will eliminate roll off, the tacky residue that occurs when working with Spa Nail Liquid. Use a clean, unused Nail Wipe saturated with Acetone for every 2 – 3 nails.
FINISHING THE NAIL
- Using an Endurance 180/180 Grit File, define the shape. Start with the side walls. Make sure they are parallel and not fanning out. File free edge into the desired shape. Refine surface and check for proper design and apex placement. File the nail so it is smooth, balanced and attractive following the curvature of the nail.
- Remove excess dust with your Plush Brush. Use a Nail Wipe lightly saturated with Cleanse to remove any dust that may be hiding in the side walls.
- Either buff to a high shine or apply Glaze ‘n Go LED following the directions on the packaging. Condition the cuticle and surrounding skin with Nurture Oil.
- Remove the shiny shield of the top coat with an Endurance 180/180 Grit File.
- Place the tips of the fingers into a bowl of Soothing Soak Off Remover. This will keep your clients’ hands nourished and pampered during removal.
- Continue to file and soak until product is completely removed. The product will go frilly around the edges of the enhancement. When ready it will be soft. Use an orange stick or equivalent tool to peel off the remaining product.
- At this time your nails are ready for reapplication of product or wash hands with warm water and soap and condition with Nurture Oil.